Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Goodbyes (July 14)

Oh man. I am terrible at goodbyes. We started off handing out the supplies to John Wesley in Standard 8, the Standard 4A teacher, and finally Katie and Cecilia. We hung up posters during the few minutes left of class instruction and then Katie told us we had to head over to the standard 7 room for the farewell celebration. It was Dr. Kelly, a director from MIE, the Domasi Government School head teacher, all the teachers, and of course, us. It was so cute, they had decorated the board, rearranged all the desks so we were in a big circle, and had a big table in the middle with food and drinks, which we really good. Our teacher, Katie, actually was on this committee and started handing out gifts to all of us. They told us we had to leave and then come back and show them what we got, so we figured it was clothing, and it was! A shirt and wraparound skirt. All of us matched and it was really nice. We clapped, dance and sang our way back into the classroom with the rest of the female teachers that had led us.

Once we were seated again, the head teacher and Dr. Kelly gave speeches, and then it was our turn. I knew it was coming. Jess and I had to stand up there together because we both suck at saying goodbye. Of course we both started crying, a lot. We cried more than anyone else and I’d be shocked if they could actually understand what we were saying to them. This was way harder than I expected it to be. I don’t think you really understand what you’re feeling or how much you’ve been affected until you’re looking all these people in the face and you have to tell them. I didn’t even get out 5 words before I turned into waterworks.

I’ve come here with a group for a purpose that includes teaching and trying to better the Domasi education system. However, it was important that they knew how much I have learned from them. I can sincerely say that I will never forget the teachers, the school, the country. I will never forget those faces, the children, not only at my school but every school, and every village we’ve driven through. Some days I’ve walked out of my classroom feeling defeated, other days I’ve come out feeling like I’ve truly made a difference. I’m coming to realize that it’s not only because I’m in Africa, or because of language and cultural differences, it happens when you’re a teacher, period. But, I appreciate every moment of it. I have grown so much in the short amount of time I’ve been here, and I’m so thankful for this experience. I feel really blessed to have been able to be here. I’ll make sure this isn’t the last time they see me.

Ponchos are done (July 13)

Today we handed out the blanket/ponchos to the youngest students at Malemia, but I unfortunately didn’t get to see. We had the option of getting on the bus to watch and then walk back to the Government school, but Jess and I were both feeling really sick so we stayed on the bus to get a ride. Since we were feeling awful we pretty much observed during class today, we figured tomorrow we will do something with the class. Plus tomorrow is when we’re bringing Katie all the supplies and decorating the classroom.

We went into town today, and of course, to our luck, our posters were too big to be laminated even though the sign says “Lamination – Any Size!”. Apparently any size means 8.5 x 11. The photo place also couldn’t develop our camera and we had a limited amount of time so we didn’t want to be running around Zomba when we had other errands to run. Nothing ever really goes as planned, but this is Africa, I have to keep reminding myself of that. I did exchange money though, and got the rest of my souveniers, so it feels good to finally be done with that.

Back at Annie’s, Jess and I got an early dinner and then decided to start packing. We figured that we would use my big suitcase to fill with supplies and clothes we’re leaving behind for Katie and some other teachers. This worked out well because everything fit perfectly and now I don’t have to bring home that ridiculous suitcase that broke on the first day here! Whatever doesn’t fit in my smaller one is gonna go in Jess’s other one, so it works out great. It feels weird to actually be packed. Everything we need for the next few days until we’re back in the states will just be in our carry-on’s. It makes it easier if we can keep all the big luggage in one place since it takes forever to load when it’s all in different places.

At 7 we decorated the bar area (well mostly Jeff and Todd) with balloons, cards and gifts for Annie. We’ve decided to throw her a farewell party to show her how grateful we are for everything she’s done for us these past few weeks. Quite honestly I’m not sure if my trip would have been every bit this wonderful if it hadn’t been in part to her hospitality and kindness. Not to mention her lodge is fantastic, and her staff is incredible, and so sweet. I will never forget her, or Ronald, or Cameron, Alice, Naomi, Peter, the list goes on. I wish I could just take them all home with me. Annie cried, which means I cried, as well as a few others. I don’t know why being her has made me so crazy emotional.

Now I’ve showered, finished packing, and sitting here typing this. I can’t believe that tomorrow is our last day in the schools. I don’t think I’m quite prepared to leave these kids yet. We’ll see what happens.

Went to the wall, finally (July 12)

It was so beautiful outside today! Sunshine without a cloud in the sky, and it was really warm. I got up around 8am, had some breakfast and then went into town with Kelsey and Angela around 11:30. I wanted to stop by the internet cafĂ© to get some things laminated, the picture place to get film developed, and Feg’s to get cardboard, chalk and an eraser, but of course all three places were closed. I’m really going to have to rush to get all those things done tomorrow, since tomorrow is technically our last day of instruction in the schools. Tuesday there is a big farewell from the teachers starting at 10am, so we won’t really have teaching time. That’s when we’ll give our gifts (the rest of our supplies, which is a ton) and that night is the big teacher dinner.

At the wall I bought 10 necklacess for 1000 kwacha which was a pretty good deal. Then I bought 6 napkin holders for 1200 kwacha, a not so good deal. I’m terrible at bargaining though, everyone knows this. That’s exactly why I’ve barely bought anything on this trip, I just can’t seem to get good prices because I settle too easily. I suck. We stopped at tasty bites for lunch, and that was really good, that place is so cheap. Later in the day I walked down to this garden area that has a mini waterfall and creek with the Rachels, DeAnna, Carolyn and Moses. It was so pretty, and I had been meaning to go down there for awhile now. You have to go in a big group though because that place has a real bad history of there being a lot of muggings. It seemed hard to believe for a place so beautiful.

Our last buffet “family” dinner was tonight! It was excellent because there was mashed potatoes! I never thought I’d appreciate them so much, but it was amazing and I had 2 helpings of it. It’s crazy the type of food you crave when you’re in foreign countries. The amount of potatoes and chips ive eaten here is insane, just because it reminds me of home. Only 5 days left!

Orphanage (July 11)

It was pouring down rain this morning, but I didn’t wake up until the alarm went off, which is unusual. I’m normally up about 15 minutes before. I slept amazing last night, I actually think it was because of the rain. It’s been rainy a lot, but it’s been light showers, nothing like how it was last night and this morning. I had to be ready by 9:30 so we could all head off to the orphanage, but because of the rain we couldn’t go at that time. All the professors were worried that the roads would be way too bad because they’re all dirt. It seems that everywhere we go is down these crazy difficult dirt roads, but that may just be because Malawi doesn’t have many roads that aren’t dirt. Jess and I came back to the room and worked on some school stuff before it was time to leave for the orphanage around 1, for real this time. She stayed because she wasn’t feeling well, and a few others ended up not going either.

Peter lead the way so Charles wouldn’t get lost. It wasn’t at all what I expected but it was nice. It’s a community based orphanage, so it sustains itself through community support, and they’re very good about supporting each other. It houses orphan children as well as sick elderly people. Dr. Kelly explained that places like this are so important because children who lose their parents are oftentimes sent to live with relatives. When this happens, they become one more mouth to feed, and their new home sometimes neglects them. Places like this take those children in and provide food, shelter, health and education. The director welcomed us into his home and gave us drinks and bread, which was so kind of him. He talked to us a bit about the orphanage and ways we could help them, either by monetary donations or donating useful materials. All three universities presented the orphanage with 18,000 kwacha, and they were all so happy. It’s so great being able to see where our money’s going and looking into the faces of all the children we’re helping. It’s so special. The kids were all adorable.

One member, an older gentleman, who I think might have been HIV positive, handed me a note as we were walking. He told me his name, said that he was a member of the orphanage and wished to have a pen pal from out of the country. He also included his address and phone number so that I could contact him if I was willing to be his pen pal. I love getting notes like this. I told him as soon as I get to the states I would write to him. Some others received notes as well. Malawians seem to do this a lot when they meet people from different countries, I really like that.

Once I got back to Annie’s, I worked on more posters for class, and just hung out and relaxed. I didn’t get to go into town but I’ll probably do that tomorrow. I can’t believe that at this time in a week I’ll be at home. I’m so anxious to be back and to see everyone, but I also really don’t want to leave Africa! I’ve pretty much fallen in love with this country and these people. I hope this next week doesn’t go by too fast!

Katie's House (July 10)

Back at school! Today was cool because after our lessons, Jess and I went with Katie to her home instead of going to MIE for our class discussion. Dr. Kelly said this was perfectly okay and told us before that if anyone ever got an opportunity to go to a teacher’s home it would be a very good idea. So we walked about 30 minutes to Katie’s, it wasn’t a bad walk but I can see how it gets tiring, especially when the sun is beating on you the entire way. One of the children in our class lives with Katie, he’s her nephew, and she also has three children of her own. Her youngest son is adorable, we picked him up from the nursery on the way, and he’s 4 years old. Her oldest daughter goes to Domasi Demonstration Secondary School, so that’s really exciting, and I’m not sure where her other daughter goes to school.

We got there and she has such a nice house, nicer than the one’s we’ve seen, besides Annie’s house of course. Outside there was a little fire pot where she would heat her pots to boil water. She laid out a mat and gave Jess and I skirt wrap things so when we sat on the ground our clothes wouldn’t get dirty. She was teaching us to make Nsima! It’s a lot like grits but I actually really like it. All it is, is flour and water. No joke. It gets really thick and mush like, and then you can eat it. It’s the Malawian national dish, and so everyone eats it for nearly every meal. We helped her make it and got some pictures, it was really cute. We went inside where she served us the Nsima, pumpkin leaves, and goat meat. I never thought I’d try goat, but I did because I didn’t want to be rude. Surprisingly, it was fantastic! Such good meat. Jess and I started eating with forks, and Katie said in Malawi people eat with their hands. So we put away the forks and started eating with our fingers, it was awesome because we never get to do that in the states with food that messy. It felt really nice being so immersed in their culture like that, something that most of our group won’t get the opportunity to do. I learned so much. They also eat a ton, and I was getting so full but I didn’t want to not finish all my food. Afterwards I was so happy that we had the walk back so I could work off some of that nsima. Katie is such an amazing lady, she is so nice, and so is her husband, Ben. I was nervous going into that situation because you never know what the husband will be like, but he was cool. He works in Zomba, and he was so interested in knowing about America. He even asked about Michael Jackson and what we thought of him. It was funny.

We had a buffet style dinner tonight with everyone, it was great as usual. Peter and Brian threw another party, but this time I didn’t stay long because I did not want a repeat of last weekend. We played 5 card draw and the loser had to take a shot. I lost like 6 times. I finally decided around 9:30 it was time to sneak away to bed. So me and Jess told them we were going to the bathroom but just left to our rooms, haha. It was a good night though. I always like when everyone hangs out together.

Mvuu Camp Safari (July 8 & 9)

I have so many things to say about the past two days I just had. I don’t even know where to begin. We left early Wednesday morning to head out to Liwonde National Park where the Mvuu (means Hippo) Camp safari place was. We pulled up to a river (after driving on a terrible dirt road through tons of really neat villages) where we split up into two groups to get on boats for our river safari. The guides were really nice and they floated us down the river where we would be able to see hippo’s and other animals on the shore. It was the perfect way to start the trip. It was kind of cold and a little rainy but thankfully it cleared up just in time. At first we didn’t see much other than a crazy amount of birds and impala everywhere, but soon we found Hippos!! And a ton of hippos at that. They were all sooo adorable with only their eyes and ears sticking out of the water at first. Hippos stay with their families and theyre called hippo camps or hippo schools. The babies usually cant reach the bottom so when they’re under water they’re resting on their mom’s back. They’re very shy though so mostly you see the older hippos. We found a ton of them laying out in the sun and pretty much all of my pictures are of these hippos. The boat pulls right up next to them, I wanted to just reach out and touch them so badly but we couldn’t. It was incredible being able to see them in their natural environment, not in captivity. They’re so much more beautiful. Oh, and birds really do sit on them in real life. They just hang out on hippo’s backs like it’s no big deal. And the hippos don’t mind it at all.

So there are a ton of these birds that live in these palm trees at one part of the river and they are absolutely obnoxious. I don’t remember their name but there’s hundreds of them and theyre loud and they poop on everything. No exaggeration, we asked the guide why half of the trees and bushes and everything over there was white, the other half green, and he said the birds had “painted them”. If that’s not a sign of overpopulation then I don’t know what is. Anyway, tons of hippos and birds. But also big crocodiles. We saw them a lot swimming around us in the river, but also some massive ones out on land. It was so creepy. There were also a lot of impala, water buck, warthogs and guinea fowl that we saw running around on land behind the hippos and stuff. It was very cool. So after a two hour river safari we headed to where the lodge was for tea, coffee, and lunch! Which was free! I was starving and the lunch was so good. Oh but first, the lodge. It was all out in the open, extremely beautiful, overlooking the river. The animals here aren’t in captivity, they just roam wild, so apparently it was not uncommon when we saw a huge baboon walk across the grass in front of our lunch table. Amazing, and very frightening at first. Those things get way bigger than the little things I’m used to seeing around Annie’s. For lunch we had Macaroni Bolognaise, Vegetable lasagna, bread and tomatoes, cucumbers, and olives with feta cheese which was great because we normally can’t eat the vegetables.

After lunch we were able to go to our rooms. We were split up into four different groups, so both Rachels, Dr. Kelly, Jess and I were in room 8. Actually, not really room, but Chalet. They were these cute little hut/tent/cabin things that sat right on the river. The bottoms were stone, or wood, can’t remember, but the whole surrounding top wall area was just net, so it felt like we were really outside. It got extremely cold in there at night but the view was so beautiful. And you could hear the hippos all the time!! Dr. Kelly said in the middle of the night they usually come right up by the chalets and sleep. We had about an hour to check out our rooms, and everyone was so thrilled. It’s seriously like the perfect honeymoon spot. All the beds had wooden posts with white draped canopy thing around it, with flowers resting on our pillows and walls made of stone. It was very rustic but romantic, haha. The bathroom was all dark stone, with an open shower, and a beautiful sink, mirror, toilet, etc. I wish I was doing this more justice. So all of us were hanging out by the river hoping to spot some elephants or hippos, but all the monkeys came over and they even chased Beth, which was pretty hilarious. We found an elephant way in the distance laying in the water and with Carolyn and Kelsey’s nice cameras it made for some good pictures.

At 3 we had to be back in the main lodge area for the Afternoon safari. They served us more coffee and tea and this time pound cake which was of course delicious. We split into groups again but this time got onto these safari jeep things. It had 4 different rows of seating at different heights and it was completely open. No doors or windows, nothing except a roof, typical safari style. We paid extra to be taken into the enclosed rhino area, so that’s where we were headed first. This area is fenced in by an electric fence only because rhinos, zebras, buffalo and other animals that live in there are endangered, and they don’t want the elephants getting in and eating all of their food. Just driving to this area was really dry, with not much grass and tons of knocked down trees. Partly because of the dry season but also because elephants eat so much, and they push down trees to eat those as well. Mvuu has about 700 elephants on the property but only about 7 rhinos and a dozen zebras, so you can see why they wanted to keep them in an area to themselves.

The most amazing thing happened during the afternoon safari. All of us were told to keep a look out for animals so that George (our guide) could stop, get us closer and tell us about it. James thought he saw an elephant. George said it’s not common to find them in the rhino area but it was possible. This was about 10 minutes into our drive, so we backed up and started looking. We drove into this little area, and out of nowhere, there was a mother elephant with a baby. We were about 10 feet from this thing.. and it was gigantic.. and I was scared. It’s not at all like being at the zoo. African elephants are impossible to tame, the one’s everyone usually sees and the ones that people can ride are always Indian elephants, and those are smaller. This thing was huge and it was staring right at us. George told us to be really quiet. All of a sudden it started mock charging us! It would flap it’s ears, make noise, back up, run towards us and then suddenly stop. George said they usually do this to see what we will do, to see if we’re scared, they do this a lot if another animal, or something, is threatening to them. I think it was because there was a baby elephant close by. She did this a few times and it scared the crap out of me. Although it was incredible, I was convinced she would actually charge at the jeep, which was parked, and had nothing to protect us, especially me, beth and james, who were all sitting along the edge closest to the elephant. Our driver radioed the other jeep so the rest of the group could come and see it, but once they got there the elephant was leaving. It was by far the most amazing thing I’ve seen on this rip. My heart was pounding even like 15 minutes after we had drove on.
I could sit here and tell you about every animal we saw on the safari, but it would take me all night long. We did see a water buffalo, it was huge, very close to us and even crossed the road in front of us while we were driving. Dr. Liz said she had never once seen that in all the safari’s she’d come on here. It’s very endangered, so that was really cool to have seen, especially so close! George and Byson (the driver) got us so close to some of these animals it was amazing. We saw lots of impala and antelope, and some other cool horned thing I don’t remember the name of. Impala are everywhere though and we saw them most times of the day in most areas. The warthogs were so fun. They look just like Pumba! They’re very skiddish though so we never got terribly close to them because they always ran away. It was kind of disappointing because we never did see a rhino or a zebra and I really wanted to. But given the fact that there are sooo few of them, and the park is sooo big, it’s very rare that people get to see them. Dr. Kelly still hasn’t seen them. The jeeps typically drive around the perimeter of the enclosure and those animals are probably way on the inside where there aren’t many roads. It’s okay though because that one elephant charging at us was enough to satisfy my wild animal need for a good while.

Around 5:30 we were finishing up our afternoon safari and drove down to the river. Here we got off the jeeps and they gave us our drinks we had ordered after lunch. I had a beer, and we all got to watch our first African sunset! Well, our first one that set over the river and mountains, surrounded by Impala, warthogs, hippos, waterbucks and crocodiles. It reminded me so much of the Lion King. The sunset was such a deep red color, and there were animals all around us. I loved it. They provided blankets too because it gets so cold and night and especially on the jeep when the wind is always blowing. Once we finished up our drinks after the sun went down, we loaded back up and it was time for our night safari before dinner.


George had a huge flashlight that he shone while we drove to catch the eyes of the night animals. We eventually found an entire family of elephants, all different sizes, even a little tiny baby that George said was less than a year old. They were so cute, and much more calm than the charging elephant we found before. We couldn’t take pictures with flash because it makes them angry, so I tried my best to get them in the dark and they didn’t come out so great. It was such a cool thing to see though. We also found a mom and a baby hippo at one of the watering holes. They were cute too, but we had seen enough hippos. I was really hoping to see some hyenas but none really came out.

Dinner was incredible. They had it set up in a different area outside in a sandy area with a huge bonfire in the middle. It was our group plus a few others that were staying there. They served everyone tomato soup first and it was sooo good, and I hate tomato soup but I wanted more. There was traditional dancing and music around the fire as well, it was insane. I wish my camera hadn’t died because I would have gotten a nice video of it. For dinner there was chicken, beef, pork, goat, vegetables, cheese potatoes, bread, rice, vegetable kabobs and coleslaw. It was so good. We were all exhausted and we had to get up the next morning at 4:45 so everyone pretty much called it an early night.


Day 19
July 9

We got up and it was raining but they were still having the morning guided walk that started around 5:30 I think. This was so you could actually walk around on the park grounds and see different animals that would just be waking, etc. George led my group, and Lawrence was behind us with a gun, just in case. I learned a lot about different types of trees that they had which was really cool. The yellow river tree cures malaria if the branches are boiled in water. There is also wild jasmine and basil and lemon grass that grows out there, its so neat. I learned a lot about elephant crap which was gross but pretty interesting, same with impalas. We saw a ton of guinea fowl, impalas, warthogs and monkeys. Sadly, no elephants were walking around. I was really hoping to see more of them. The walk lasted about an hour and then we went back for breakfast. Of course, it was just as good as the other meals. Muffins, French toast, omelets, bacon, sausage, fruit, cereal, etc.

During breakfast we met Jillian. She is the executive director and founder of H.E.L.P (hope, education, love, protection) Malawi. It’s a non-profit organization that is pretty well known and that I had actually done research on during my senior research proposal. Needless to say, I was absolutely thrilled that we actually got to meet her. She came up to our table because she noticed we were a bunch of Americans, and shes from New York. She told us about her school, Nanthomba, that is just across the river that she started under HELP Malawi. It provides schooling for mostly orphans and the children of the workers at Mvuu Camp and surrounding areas. Dr. Kelly agreed to let us stop there on the way home, and I was so excited. Jillian also has a medical clinic and maternity ward that focuses on trying to lower the maternal and infant mortality rates, which was what my entire paper was based on. I was so grateful she took the time to tell me all about it, and I got her contact information.

We left breakfast for another river safari and it was pretty much the same as the first one. The other boat saw two herds of elephants, and we didn’t see anything but a bunch of hippos and crocs so I was kinda upset. But it’s okay. So we got on the bus and headed towards the school and it was phenomenal. I feel bad saying it, but it was definitely my favorite school I’ve visited this entire trip. They are working on being able to sustain themselves as a school so that they no longer need support from donors and other foundations. It was kind of like a combination between a primary school and Freedom Gardens. The kids were so smart, and the staff was amazing. Matt gave us the tour. He is a graduate from University of Wisconsin – Madison and is the HELP Malawi International Project Coordinator. He studied International Relations and is planning on going back to the states next year to pursue a masters. I got his information too and he was so helpful. It’s exactly the kind of thing I’d love to get involved in. After visiting the school he took us to see the clinic, and it was well under construction. It’s coming along very nicely.

Once we headed home, we stopped at Liwonde, the authentic wood carving place. I bought a few things but it was pretty much like every other place we had been to. Finally, we were home, and so tired. I pretty much just showered, got ready for Friday’s lesson and went to bed. It was such a good past few days though. Much more than I ever expected it to be.

TALULAR (July 7)

I am feeling much better and we were back in the schools today after a nice weekend, for the most part. Our class is having their review for an end of term exam, and we are really nervous about confusing them or putting them off track, so we let Katie teach today. We went around to check papers and teach them if they didn’t understand but that was the extent of it. They had music today and I absolutely love that. They sang and danced for us but at the last few minutes Jess and I sand the ants go marching one by one again for them. We’re really trying to get them to get the words down.. slowly but surely.

Afterwards, instead of having our usual class discussion, we went into one of the MIE labs to talk to with Baxton who’s incharge of teaching TALULAR to teachers and others who come to learn. TALULAR is Teaching And Learning Using Locally Available Resources. This was fascinating. When I did my senior research proposal I came across some research on TALULAR but never really got to see anything. He had tonnnss of things to show us! There were teaching materials made of anything you could possibly think of. This is great because it doesn’t allow teachers to use the excuse of not having materials available to them, because they can use everything around them. There were posters made from sacks, recycled paper, reeds, etc. Small supply holders (for paperclips, rubber bands, erasers, thumbtacs) made from match boxes that were glued together. Sentence makers made from cardboard and strips of paper. Maps drawn out in different colored beans that were glued to paper or whatever could have been used. Shapes made from rope. It’s so hard to explain. I took a ton of pictures and I learned so much. It gave Jess and I great ideas about what to contribute to our classroom before we leave.

The sad part was that Baxton told us he had just retired a few days ago and this was his last lecture. He has traveled all over Africa and even into the united states teaching about TALULAR and how it can positively impact education and the quality of teaching. It’s so important especially in an area like this where schools struggle as it is with attendance and even just trying to find qualified teachers. The guy who is supposed to be replacing him hasn’t even come to look at all the things Baxton has so that he knows what to do, it’s pretty sad.

It got us really excited though and we got a good amount of our school projects done tonight so that we could get stuff laminated this weekend once we get back from the safari. The safari that we leave in the morning for!! Yay!